Sadiq Gill - How To Install Wood Flooring

One way to change up the interior of your home is install wood flooring. It’s a classic look that you can accomplish all on your own by following a few easy steps.

Start by figuring out what kind of wood you want to install. Make note of the board widths so you can measure properly.

Next, measure the room or the area where you’ll be installing the wood. Measure the width and length of the room, and multiply those numbers to get the square footage. When you purchase the wood, allow 10-15 percent for errors.

Check your current floor to see if it squeaks. You’ll need at least a ¾” plywood subfloor. If there is a squeak, screw a long drywall screw into the subfloor and joist where you hear the noise.

Next, get rid of the shoe-molding in the room, clean and sweep the floor.

Then, roll out strips of vapor barrier paper (with some overlap) and staple it to the subfloor. Make marks on the paper where the joists are located.

Next is the installation. It’s good to begin at the longest unobstructed wall. Pick a long, straight wood board to begin the first row. Line the board up about 3/8’ away from the wall (you can make a chalk line if this helps) to allow for expansion.

Drill holes through the wood and into the subfloor and joists. You want the first boards to be perpendicular to the joists underneath to provide a solid anchor.

Nail each board at the point of every joist and set the nail with a nail-set. Complete the entire first row, remembering to pick random board lengths.  

After you install a few rows, hand nail the rolls. Then, using a nail gun and a mallet, drive the staple into the tongue of the wood.

When you get to the baseboards, you might have to cut the end so it fits. Make sure you pay attention to the way the pieces fit together (they are like puzzle pieces) so you don’t cut off the wrong side.

Once you’re nearing the last board, make sure to measure correctly and cut it length-wise if you have to. Finally, replace the shoe molding and putty any nail holes that have been face-nailed.

Sadiq Gill - Renting an Outdoor Heater

By Sadiq Gill

For anyone throwing an outdoor party – ranging from a backyard birthday party to an outdoor tent wedding – outdoor heaters are an essential item. Powered by propane, kerosene, or electricity, these appliances will keep your guests cozy and comfortable so that the party can go as late as you please!

Some types of portable heaters include forced air heaters, radiant heat panel heaters, and patio heaters (the type of heater you often see in outdoor seating areas of restaurants).

Most do-it-yourself rental and tool rental outlets offer a variety of outdoor heaters and related supplies.

Heaters, for example, typically may include:

•          Heater, 1.5m Btu Propane Forced Air
•          Heater, 125k Btu Kerosene Forced Air
•          Heater, 150k Btu Kerosene Forced Air
•          Heater, 150k Btu Propane Convection
•          Heater, 150k Btu Propane Forced Air
•          Heater, 175k Btu Propane Tent
•          Heater, 200k Btu Kerosene Forced Air Indirect
•          Heater, 200k Btu Propane Forced Air Indirect
•          Heater, 250k Btu Propane Top Hat
•          Heater, 350k Btu Propane Forced Air
•          Heater, 35k Btu Propane Forced Air
•          Heater, 35k Btu Propane Radiant
•          Heater, 400k Btu Propane Forced Air
•          Heater, 40k Btu Propane Patio
•          Heater, 50k Btu Kerosene Forced Air
•          Heater, Electric 1875 Watt

In addition, most centers will offer some additional accessories that you may need:

•          Coupler with Pigtail (used to couple multiple propane tanks together)
•          Hose, 1 1/4" X 25' Lp
•          Hose, 1 1/4" X 50' Lp
•          Hose, 1/2" X 50' Lp
•          Hose, 3/4" X 50' Lp
•          Hose, 3/8" X 30' Lp
•          Thermostat

Depending on what you are using the heater for, you may also require dehumidifiers and fans.

Sadiq Gill - Tool Rental Outlets Come In Handy For Contractors

Sitting behind a desk all day or performing some type of “white collar” function for a living is not for everyone. There are many among us who are more interested in building things, fixing things or getting things to work right. A good number of these individuals end up taking the knowledge and skills they develop in a particular area over time and turning them into a profession. In lieu of going to work for an established business, many of these handy folks opt for the autonomy of working for themselves as contractors.

But tools are expensive. At least initially, tool rental outlets can often be a lifesaver for the contractor.

A Tool for Every Season … and Skillset

The larger tool rental companies are usually quite capable of accommodating most contractor needs. Although there are those who specialize in some specific trade, some contractors are more generalized in their offerings and may only occasionally be required to use certain equipment to tackle a job.

In cases where it is not necessarily practical for a contractor to own items such as large generators, brick saws, scaffolding or concrete mixers, tool rental establishments make life a little easier. Landscaping contractors are especially appreciative of tool and equipment rental outlets when a particular job calls for a device that may not be in their repertoire, such as a log splitter or stump grinder.

When a mower refuses to start, when a drywall specialist breaks his last nail gun or when a plumbing contractor searches frantically for his 2-inch pipe cutter but it’s nowhere to be found, the local tool rental store can often ease the anxieties of these hard-working people. From an aerator rental to Bobcat rental, most contracting essentials can be covered by tool and equipment rental outlets. These businesses offer convenience to the contractor by furnishing them with cost-effective solutions. They also act as a “safety net” when contractors find themselves in a pinch.

Sadiq Gill - Plan Now To Have The Best Lawn Ever!

By Sadiq Gill

A healthy, verdant lawn requires year-round care. Even before the ground thaws, you can start caring for your lawn so that it stays beautiful all year and into next as well. Here’s how (and when) to do it:

• Don’t neglect lawn in fall and winter. Make sure you fertilize and aerate the soil in the fall. During the winter, keep your lawn free of debris, leaves, branches, etc., as these things can invite pests and disease.
• Mow frequently. Start mowing your lawn in the spring, after the grass reaches about 3-4 inches in height. Frequent mowing forces the lawn to grow thick and helps keep out weeds. Make sure mower blades are kept sharp, and consider using a mulching mower to fertilize as you mow.
• Mow properly. When mowing, be sure that the mower is set for the right height (don’t go too short, as this will expose the grass’s roots to the elements), and don’t mow the lawn when wet or the roots will become compacted.
• Dethatch your lawn in late spring. This “wakes up” your lawn after a long winter, allowing the soil to breathe and permitting nitrogen exchange with the atmosphere. Spring dethatching is especially important for dense lawns. Fertilize after spring dethatching for optimal results.
• Don’t overwater. Watering your lawn too frequently wastes water, results in thatch buildup, and encourages shallow roots. Water your lawn deeply but infrequently.
• Look out for summer problems. Some of these include pests and weeds. Applying natural pest-control and weed-control products during the summer as needed can help address these problems. Brown patches are another summer lawn problem, but they are easier to prevent (with good year-round lawn maintenance) than to cure.
• Rent lawn and garden tools. Lawn and garden tools such as mowers, dethatchers, and aerators are essential for proper lawn care. Renting these tools can make your life a whole lot easier and eliminate the hassle of tool maintenance. It also makes financial sense in many cases – for example, why buy a dethatcher when you only need to use it once a year?

Sadiq Gill - How To Build A Raised Garden Bed

By Sadiq Gill

For casual and serious gardeners alike, raised garden beds offer several important advantages:

• Their raised height makes maintenance easier.
•  The bed sides help keep out weeds and grass.
• The soil in the beds drains quickly so that it doesn’t become waterlogged.
•  The soil warms earlier in spring.
• The soil doesn’t become compacted because you don’t step on the growing area.

You can construct a raised garden bed from a number of materials, including lumber (rot-resistant cedar or redwood is best), concrete blocks, sandbags, or logs. For a funky look, you can even use an old bed frame or old wooden boat. If you’re growing edible plants, avoid using creosote-treated railroad ties or chemical-treated wood. If you use wood treated with alkaline copper quaternary (ACQ), use an air-and-water-permeable landscape fabric screen to prevent soil contact.

Follow the below steps to construct a simple 4x8-foot raised garden bed out of lumber.

1. Gather: three 2x12 boards (8 ft. long), one 2x4 board (8 ft. long), and 21/2-inch galvanized deck screws (28 screws).
2. Cut one of the 2x12 boards in half to make two 4-ft. lengths for the end pieces.
3. Cut the 2x4 board into one 4-ft. piece for the center brace and four 1-ft. lengths for corner supports.
4. Drill pilot holes, and attach one of the sideboards (one of the two uncut boards) with three screws, evenly spaced.
5. Position one of the corner supports in the angle between the boards, attaching it to the sideboard with three screws; repeat for the three remaining corners.
6. Use a square to position the center brace at a right angle to the sides. Attach the center brace, joining the two sides at their mid-points.