Monday, 29 February 2016

Sadiq Gill - How To Install Wood Flooring



One way to change up the interior of your home is install wood flooring. It’s a classic look that you can accomplish all on your own by following a few easy steps.

Start by figuring out what kind of wood you want to install. Make note of the board widths so you can measure properly.

Next, measure the room or the area where you’ll be installing the wood. Measure the width and length of the room, and multiply those numbers to get the square footage. When you purchase the wood, allow 10-15 percent for errors.

Check your current floor to see if it squeaks. You’ll need at least a ¾” plywood subfloor. If there is a squeak, screw a long drywall screw into the subfloor and joist where you hear the noise.

Next, get rid of the shoe-molding in the room, clean and sweep the floor.

Then, roll out strips of vapor barrier paper (with some overlap) and staple it to the subfloor. Make marks on the paper where the joists are located.

Next is the installation. It’s good to begin at the longest unobstructed wall. Pick a long, straight wood board to begin the first row. Line the board up about 3/8’ away from the wall (you can make a chalk line if this helps) to allow for expansion.

Drill holes through the wood and into the subfloor and joists. You want the first boards to be perpendicular to the joists underneath to provide a solid anchor.

Nail each board at the point of every joist and set the nail with a nail-set. Complete the entire first row, remembering to pick random board lengths.  

After you install a few rows, hand nail the rolls. Then, using a nail gun and a mallet, drive the staple into the tongue of the wood.

When you get to the baseboards, you might have to cut the end so it fits. Make sure you pay attention to the way the pieces fit together (they are like puzzle pieces) so you don’t cut off the wrong side.

Once you’re nearing the last board, make sure to measure correctly and cut it length-wise if you have to. Finally, replace the shoe molding and putty any nail holes that have been face-nailed.

Tuesday, 2 February 2016

Sadiq Gill - Renting an Outdoor Heater



By Sadiq Gill

For anyone throwing an outdoor party – ranging from a backyard birthday party to an outdoor tent wedding – outdoor heaters are an essential item. Powered by propane, kerosene, or electricity, these appliances will keep your guests cozy and comfortable so that the party can go as late as you please!

Some types of portable heaters include forced air heaters, radiant heat panel heaters, and patio heaters (the type of heater you often see in outdoor seating areas of restaurants).

Most do-it-yourself rental and tool rental outlets offer a variety of outdoor heaters and related supplies.

Heaters, for example, typically may include:

  •          Heater, 1.5m Btu Propane Forced Air
  •          Heater, 125k Btu Kerosene Forced Air
  •          Heater, 150k Btu Kerosene Forced Air
  •          Heater, 150k Btu Propane Convection
  •          Heater, 150k Btu Propane Forced Air
  •          Heater, 175k Btu Propane Tent
  •          Heater, 200k Btu Kerosene Forced Air Indirect
  •          Heater, 200k Btu Propane Forced Air Indirect
  •          Heater, 250k Btu Propane Top Hat
  •          Heater, 350k Btu Propane Forced Air
  •          Heater, 35k Btu Propane Forced Air
  •          Heater, 35k Btu Propane Radiant
  •          Heater, 400k Btu Propane Forced Air
  •          Heater, 40k Btu Propane Patio
  •          Heater, 50k Btu Kerosene Forced Air
  •          Heater, Electric 1875 Watt

In addition, most centers will offer some additional accessories that you may need:
  •          Coupler with Pigtail (used to couple multiple propane tanks together)
  •          Hose, 1 1/4" X 25' Lp
  •          Hose, 1 1/4" X 50' Lp
  •          Hose, 1/2" X 50' Lp
  •          Hose, 3/4" X 50' Lp
  •          Hose, 3/8" X 30' Lp
  •          Thermostat
Depending on what you are using the heater for, you may also require dehumidifiers and fans.